As I settle back at home (and deal with my jetlag), reflecting back on my seven months in Vietnam, it seems like my time there went by very quickly. I achieved one of my two goals, to learn to read and write in Vietnamese. I would not say I "fluently" read and write. I am definitely still stumbling and I do not have a sufficient vocabulary to understand the prose-y way Vietnamese write. At least now I have an idea how things are pronounced when I read. I did not achieve my second goal of volunteering. It seems more difficult when you do not sign up for a formal volunteer placement.
I am very happy to have had the experience to live in Vietnam. I don't think travelling through for a few weeks would have had the same impact. I got to interact with locals on a daily basis and not just as a tourist. I enjoyed seeing the different vendors every day. They were all so friendly and wished me well when I got home. They also all asked me when I would come back. Maybe in the next thirty years (since it took me that long for my first visit!)?
As I finish up with this blog, I remember some post ideas that I never ended up writing. One was the "What If?" post, as in "What if my parents never left Vietnam?". Well, the obvious answer is, I wouldn't be Canadian and I would not have had as many opportunities as I have. Would I still have become an engineer? Who knows? Would I own my own house? Probably not. Would I have been worst off? I think both worlds has its advantages and disadvantages but I do realize Viet Kieu's are lucky. Our parents sacrificed a lot for us to have a better life.
One last note, I have really enjoyed writing this blog and writing in general. I've also had the chance to make good friends (like Miss Gastronomer) and to discover the world of blogging. I want to continue blogging so I've decided to start a new blog, based at home (probably no more travels for a while, sigh). I think it will be mainly about food with a side of house projects. Please check it out: Miss.Adventure at Home.
Monday, September 8, 2008
Seoul Layover
As I faced an 8 hour layover in Seoul (sandwiched between a 5 hour and 13 hour flight), I debated whether I should visit Seoul. Luckily, I was able to find a lot of information online, mainly from a Vancouver Sun article and from the blog adventures in the people’s republic of china and beyond. I decided that even if I ended up spending a couple of hours in Seoul, it would still be better than pacing around the airport for 8 hours.
On the way out of Incheon - looks like my previous employer, the big D.
Am I back in HCMC? Tous Les Jours Bakery just opened an outlet near my old place in District 1.
As you can see, Insadong was very quaint but still sleeping.
It was a very artsy looking area.
The menus looked appetizing but I could not find an open restaurant!
I saw many cute stone statues.
Jogyesa Temple.
Gargoyle in the subway.
As I was exiting the subway station, I could hear drums beating. There was some type of procession going on.
The Palace with the mountain backdrop.
I love the gargoyles here. Who would have thunk there would be gargoyles in Korea?
National Palace Museum of Korea.
Korean lemon tea. I really like the rosemary that infused the tea.
My trip started less than ideally when I could only get a boarding pass from HCMC to Seoul because I was first traveling with Korean Airlines and then Air Canada. This meant that I would need to check in again in Seoul. I was hoping to save myself this task so I could save on time. When I arrived at 7 am I rushed to the Air Canada counter to get my boarding pass, but it was only opening at noon. So I decided the heck with it, I was going to explore Seoul!
I exchanged 60 USD for Korean won's. I went outside and found the bus stop that went to Insadong, my first stop in Seoul. Buses come at 20 minute intervals and their routes are very clearly illustrated. I went to buy a ticket for 9000 won (about 9 USD). It took about an hour to get to Insadong. Bus stops were announced by an automated voice in Korean and English. I arrived in Insadong at close to 9 am. Unfortunately, nothing was opened until 10:30 am except for a few souvenir shops. I could not even find a restaurant serving breakfast. So I walked around and took a few pictures.
On the way out of Incheon - looks like my previous employer, the big D.
Am I back in HCMC? Tous Les Jours Bakery just opened an outlet near my old place in District 1.
As you can see, Insadong was very quaint but still sleeping.
Only souvenir shops were open. They were rather pricey too.
It was a very artsy looking area.
The menus looked appetizing but I could not find an open restaurant!
I saw many cute stone statues.
I decided to move on and go check out Jogyesa Temple nearby. I have to admit that by now I was getting tired. I was dragging a carry-on and a laptop; it was getting quite heavy. So I just took some pictures.
Jogyesa Temple.
Then I jumped (rather dragged my carry-on down some stairs… ka-tunk, ka-tunk, ka-tunk) on the subway and went to the next station to visit Gyeongbokgung Palace, built in the 1300’s. I decided to pay the 3000 won to go inside, but I was there for maybe 20 minutes. The visit was worthwhile though; the property is very vast and there is a mountain behind the palace. Very scenic! Unfortunately, I only saw a fraction of what was there.
Gargoyle in the subway.
As I was exiting the subway station, I could hear drums beating. There was some type of procession going on.
The Palace with the mountain backdrop.
I love the gargoyles here. Who would have thunk there would be gargoyles in Korea?
I love taking pictures of old doors.
Finally, I decided to have an early lunch at the cafe in the National Palace Museum of Korea by the subway. It was a chance for me to sit and relax. I ordered the bibimbap for 12,000 won and a Korean lemon tea for 4000 won. That was close to a $16 lunch; I haven’t paid that much for a meal in a while! I’ve been wanting to try this colourful dish since I saw it on Food Safari. I was imagining it with a raw egg like I saw on the show but this one didn’t have one. It was still very good; I especially liked the spicy pepper paste. The bowl was too much for me though and I couldn't finish it.
National Palace Museum of Korea.
Accompanying dishes: kimchi, red pepper paste and vinegar-y seaweed?
Korean lemon tea. I really like the rosemary that infused the tea.
From Gyeongbokgung Station, I found the airport bus stop. I wasn't sure if I had to buy a ticket so I tried to ask a shop owner nearby. He kept trying to communicate with me in Korean. Finally, I gave up and just waited for the bus. As it turns out, you just pay the bus driver when you get on the bus.
Airport bus stop.
It was a whirlwind visit. I was in the city for only three hours, but I still think it was worth it. I got back in time to check in and go through security and customs. The only thing I would suggest is not to visit Insadong if you're there early in the morning.
Sunday, September 7, 2008
HCMC Picture Hodgepodge
Now that I have access to my computer (thanks to H for fixing my virus ridden laptop!), I can upload my many pictures. Here are miscellaneous pictures that I took in HCMC that did not make it into a post!
View from our hotel room on our first night in HCMC.
Careful there! So many electrical wires!
Rex Hotel. Dammit, I never had a drink on the patio!! However, I did get a Swedish massage at the hotel thanks to The Gastronomer.
Old houses in District 5.
Line of vendors lined up, selling ... I don’t know what. I always meant to try it but never got around to it.
Vegetarian thali at our favourite Indian restaurant, Mumtaz, at 226 Bùi Viện. I’ve had many thali‘s and this is one of the prettiest! The Boyfriend and I ate there every few weeks!
Bánh mì thịt bò nướng, fancied up (and the price showed it!)
Bánh cam Vendor.
Can you say traffic?
Family friends from Montréal in front of city hall.
Park by Phạm Ngũ Lão St (near the backpacker’s district).
Carved stone depicting traditional Vietnamese musicians.
Bright yellow Jaspas restaurant from where we ordered 2-for-1 pizza on Mondays and Thursdays!
Not one but two TV’s loaded on a motorbike!
Striped socks seem to be the trend for motorbike drivers.
Talking about luxe stores and motorbike trends!
Kids playing in a puddle after a rainstorm.
View of the densely populated city from the International Language Academy (where The Boyfriend works).
Can you spot the salamander(s)?
View from our hotel room on our first night in HCMC.
Careful there! So many electrical wires!
Rex Hotel. Dammit, I never had a drink on the patio!! However, I did get a Swedish massage at the hotel thanks to The Gastronomer.
Old houses in District 5.
Line of vendors lined up, selling ... I don’t know what. I always meant to try it but never got around to it.
Vegetarian thali at our favourite Indian restaurant, Mumtaz, at 226 Bùi Viện. I’ve had many thali‘s and this is one of the prettiest! The Boyfriend and I ate there every few weeks!
Bánh mì thịt bò nướng, fancied up (and the price showed it!)
Bánh cam Vendor.
Can you say traffic?
Family friends from Montréal in front of city hall.
Park by Phạm Ngũ Lão St (near the backpacker’s district).
Carved stone depicting traditional Vietnamese musicians.
Bright yellow Jaspas restaurant from where we ordered 2-for-1 pizza on Mondays and Thursdays!
My cousin L’s twins! Aren’t they cute?
Not one but two TV’s loaded on a motorbike!
HCMC has luxe stores of its own.
Striped socks seem to be the trend for motorbike drivers.
…and fancy motorbike helmets…
Talking about luxe stores and motorbike trends!
Kids playing in a puddle after a rainstorm.
View of the densely populated city from the International Language Academy (where The Boyfriend works).
Can you spot the salamander(s)?
Wednesday, September 3, 2008
Miss.Adventure’s Guide to Living in Vietnam
As my days in Vietnam dwindle down, I wanted to include tips that I have learned from living in Vietnam for anyone who stumbles onto this blog for some help. I’ll include the disclaimer that this information is only accurate NOW (2008).
Side Note: As for posting on this blog, I have maybe a couple of posts left. I am debating whether I should visit Seoul during my layover there. If I do, I will definitely post the pictures here. After that, my trip will be over. However, I am planning a new blog based at home. I’ll share the details soon on my final post!
When to travel in Vietnam
I can only comment on my own experience. We arrived in Vietnam in February, on the first day of Tết (Vietnamese New Year). I have always wanted to go to Vietnam during Tết. What I found is that most stores and business are closed for a week. There is not much to do other than staying home with your family. As well, in February, while it is hot in southern Vietnam, it was cold in the north, and close to freezing temperature in Sapa. Just keep that in mind if you were imagining warm weather all year round throughout the country – like I did and didn’t pack the right clothing…
Train and Luggage Tickets
In Vietnam, you have to show your train tickets getting on AND off the train. I believe you get fined if you don’t. I think it’s to avoid having people cheating and buying cheaper tickets with the incorrect (shorter distance) destination. As well, when you leave the airports, they actually check that your luggage match against the luggage tags. It’s actually good when you think about it so no one can walk out with your suitcase! So be diligent in keeping ALL of your tags and tickets!
Multiple Entry Visa
After applying and paying for a multiple entry visa, I thought I had a multiple entry visa. Can you predict the rest of this story? To my surprise upon my return from the Philippines, I was told that my visa was not valid. My visa was a single entry visa even though I forked out an extra $50 for a multiple one. After being threatened by officials to be deported back to the Philippines, being reminded that entry into Vietnam was not a right but rather a privilege (yes, I understood all of that in Vietnamese!), I was able to get a new visa for double the normal fee but who is going to complain? When I asked if I could finally leave, one official even joked that I could only leave with one of them. I kept my cool and did not react. It was a nightmarish night. As The Boyfriend pointed out, I was lucky to be granted another visa and they could easily have refused me entry. Moral of the story? Check that your paperwork is what it should be.
Paying rent
My issue with rent here is that our rent was quoted in USD and The Boyfriend was paid in VND (dong). I recommend to anyone who is not being paid in USD to negotiate paying rent in VND instead. This is because we had a problem with having two different exchange rates: bank and black market rates. This is not an issue anymore as both rates are now the same but it could be an issue again with potential speculation. If you are being quoted in USD and want to pay in VND, ask that the contract specify which rate to use (bank rate is most beneficial) so no conflict occurs (as we had to deal with!); I think it’s actually illegal to use anything but the bank rate, but try to argue that with an old, stubborn Vietnamese landlady!
Exchanging money
On the topic of exchanging money, currently many banks will not exchange VND currency into any foreign currency. It varies from bank to bank. At Vietcombank, they will only allow The Boyfriend to convert his assets when he closes his account after it has been approved by the director. HSBC will allow exchanges only for their customers (who have accounts at the Vietnamese branch) if you have proof that you are leaving the country. The moral of the story is that you should not exchange more than you have to or you might get stuck with VND (or get charged a black market exchange rate as an anonymous commenter experienced).
Eating out
Two great websites that I used for restaurants in Vietnam is noodlepie and Gastronomy (yes, I’ve mentioned this site before and I’ve had the chance to spend time with the lovely Gastronomer!). They both have a pull down of Vietnamese dishes that is very helpful. Another helpful site is Chez Moz Dining Guide.
Vegetarian Eating
For vegetarians like The Boyfriend, a good tip is that on the 1st and 15th of the lunar month, Buddhists follow a vegetarian diet. It is quite easy to find vegetarian Vietnamese dishes on those days.
Shopping
My favourite subject! There are good deals to be had in Vietnam and it can be overwhelming. Here are a few things I think worthwhile:
- Custom clothing: My experience with getting custom clothes sewn is limited. I would suggest that you bring your favourite piece of clothing if you want a guaranteed product because Vietnamese tailors are great at copying. I was very happy with my pants. If you do get something made from a picture, you should try it on and ask the tailor to make the necessary tweaks. The Boyfriend got pants made he felt were too tight (even though measurements were taken); luckily, the tailor left some allowance so he could loosen them. In addition, you might want to bring your own fabric. Vietnamese fabric is limited and a lot of it is the shiny synthetic material that locals prefer.
- Bootleg DVD’s from China: You can buy the latest movies (that are still in the theatre) for 15,000 VND (about 1 USD). You can also buy TV shows on DVD’s. I just bought all 7 seasons of Sex and the City for 150,000 VND. The only caveat is that the quality is inconsistent. We’ve watched good quality movies and TV shows but some will freeze or you’ll see someone walking in front of the camera.
- Custom Paintings: There are many shops that do custom paintings. They offer everything from cheesy paintings to any replicas you'd like. If you want a picture of your family or dog painted on canvas at a good price, this is your chance. They are good at copying.
60cm x 80 cm painting for my sister for 550,000 VND.
- Eyewear: Forget about Lens Crafters. Eyewear is ridiculously affordable here. I got a pair of glasses made for 450,000 VND and it only took a day to get them. The frame I picked did say CK and I ended up with a pair of D&G, but at that price who can complain? So bring your prescription with you!
I can’t think of anything else. If I do, I will simply add on to this page.
Side Note: As for posting on this blog, I have maybe a couple of posts left. I am debating whether I should visit Seoul during my layover there. If I do, I will definitely post the pictures here. After that, my trip will be over. However, I am planning a new blog based at home. I’ll share the details soon on my final post!
When to travel in Vietnam
I can only comment on my own experience. We arrived in Vietnam in February, on the first day of Tết (Vietnamese New Year). I have always wanted to go to Vietnam during Tết. What I found is that most stores and business are closed for a week. There is not much to do other than staying home with your family. As well, in February, while it is hot in southern Vietnam, it was cold in the north, and close to freezing temperature in Sapa. Just keep that in mind if you were imagining warm weather all year round throughout the country – like I did and didn’t pack the right clothing…
Train and Luggage Tickets
In Vietnam, you have to show your train tickets getting on AND off the train. I believe you get fined if you don’t. I think it’s to avoid having people cheating and buying cheaper tickets with the incorrect (shorter distance) destination. As well, when you leave the airports, they actually check that your luggage match against the luggage tags. It’s actually good when you think about it so no one can walk out with your suitcase! So be diligent in keeping ALL of your tags and tickets!
Multiple Entry Visa
After applying and paying for a multiple entry visa, I thought I had a multiple entry visa. Can you predict the rest of this story? To my surprise upon my return from the Philippines, I was told that my visa was not valid. My visa was a single entry visa even though I forked out an extra $50 for a multiple one. After being threatened by officials to be deported back to the Philippines, being reminded that entry into Vietnam was not a right but rather a privilege (yes, I understood all of that in Vietnamese!), I was able to get a new visa for double the normal fee but who is going to complain? When I asked if I could finally leave, one official even joked that I could only leave with one of them. I kept my cool and did not react. It was a nightmarish night. As The Boyfriend pointed out, I was lucky to be granted another visa and they could easily have refused me entry. Moral of the story? Check that your paperwork is what it should be.
Paying rent
My issue with rent here is that our rent was quoted in USD and The Boyfriend was paid in VND (dong). I recommend to anyone who is not being paid in USD to negotiate paying rent in VND instead. This is because we had a problem with having two different exchange rates: bank and black market rates. This is not an issue anymore as both rates are now the same but it could be an issue again with potential speculation. If you are being quoted in USD and want to pay in VND, ask that the contract specify which rate to use (bank rate is most beneficial) so no conflict occurs (as we had to deal with!); I think it’s actually illegal to use anything but the bank rate, but try to argue that with an old, stubborn Vietnamese landlady!
Exchanging money
On the topic of exchanging money, currently many banks will not exchange VND currency into any foreign currency. It varies from bank to bank. At Vietcombank, they will only allow The Boyfriend to convert his assets when he closes his account after it has been approved by the director. HSBC will allow exchanges only for their customers (who have accounts at the Vietnamese branch) if you have proof that you are leaving the country. The moral of the story is that you should not exchange more than you have to or you might get stuck with VND (or get charged a black market exchange rate as an anonymous commenter experienced).
Eating out
Two great websites that I used for restaurants in Vietnam is noodlepie and Gastronomy (yes, I’ve mentioned this site before and I’ve had the chance to spend time with the lovely Gastronomer!). They both have a pull down of Vietnamese dishes that is very helpful. Another helpful site is Chez Moz Dining Guide.
Vegetarian Eating
For vegetarians like The Boyfriend, a good tip is that on the 1st and 15th of the lunar month, Buddhists follow a vegetarian diet. It is quite easy to find vegetarian Vietnamese dishes on those days.
Shopping
My favourite subject! There are good deals to be had in Vietnam and it can be overwhelming. Here are a few things I think worthwhile:
- Custom clothing: My experience with getting custom clothes sewn is limited. I would suggest that you bring your favourite piece of clothing if you want a guaranteed product because Vietnamese tailors are great at copying. I was very happy with my pants. If you do get something made from a picture, you should try it on and ask the tailor to make the necessary tweaks. The Boyfriend got pants made he felt were too tight (even though measurements were taken); luckily, the tailor left some allowance so he could loosen them. In addition, you might want to bring your own fabric. Vietnamese fabric is limited and a lot of it is the shiny synthetic material that locals prefer.
- Bootleg DVD’s from China: You can buy the latest movies (that are still in the theatre) for 15,000 VND (about 1 USD). You can also buy TV shows on DVD’s. I just bought all 7 seasons of Sex and the City for 150,000 VND. The only caveat is that the quality is inconsistent. We’ve watched good quality movies and TV shows but some will freeze or you’ll see someone walking in front of the camera.
- Custom Paintings: There are many shops that do custom paintings. They offer everything from cheesy paintings to any replicas you'd like. If you want a picture of your family or dog painted on canvas at a good price, this is your chance. They are good at copying.
60cm x 80 cm painting for my sister for 550,000 VND.
- Eyewear: Forget about Lens Crafters. Eyewear is ridiculously affordable here. I got a pair of glasses made for 450,000 VND and it only took a day to get them. The frame I picked did say CK and I ended up with a pair of D&G, but at that price who can complain? So bring your prescription with you!
I can’t think of anything else. If I do, I will simply add on to this page.
Monday, September 1, 2008
Say No to Drugs
I got the scoop about the death in my alley. It was not a homeless, old person as I thought. Rather, it was a young man in his early thirties. As my landlady put it, he died of ma tuy (drugs) or SIDA (AIDS). I'm not sure whether she means both or one of them. I think some Vietnamese people associate one with the other.
I am not sure if drugs are a big issue in Vietnam. According to the ads I see on the streets, I would assume it is a serious issue. I don't really have anything to say about this because I honestly don't know much. I've heard heroine is one of the popular drugs here, but I can't confirm this.
Say "KHONG" (no) to drugs.
Drugs can kill.
I am not sure if drugs are a big issue in Vietnam. According to the ads I see on the streets, I would assume it is a serious issue. I don't really have anything to say about this because I honestly don't know much. I've heard heroine is one of the popular drugs here, but I can't confirm this.
Say "KHONG" (no) to drugs.
Drugs can kill.
A sign that associates ma tuy (drugs) with AIDS.
Sunday, August 24, 2008
Vegetarian Buffet
When The Boyfriend and I first arrived in HCMC, we saw a restaurant that offered a vegetarian buffet. It was for a limited time around Tết (Vietnamese New Year). I thought it would be fun to go to a buffet where The Boyfriend could eat anything. However, when we finally decided to go, there was a wedding reception and the buffet offering was over.
Talking to my Vietnamese teacher, I learned that the 7th month of the lunar calendar (around August) is when many Vietnamese eat vegetarian all month to honour ancestors - I think... So I suggested we go check out the restaurant again to see if the vegetarian buffet was being offered. Luckily for us, it was!!
At 120,000 VND each (about 7 USD), it is not a cheap meal in Vietnam. There were two separate floors and we were assigned to go to the third floor. There were not too many people when we arrived, but it was full when we left. The offering was quite extensive: soups, salads, noodles, sushi, spring rolls and all sorts of faux meats. We ordered something to drink, not realizing there was also a drinks buffet, including tea and lemonade!
Everyone checking out the selection with festive green decor.
Some vegetable offering.
Some vegetarian gỏi (salads) served with bánh phồng tôm (crackers, usually shrimp flavoured). Our favourite was the lotus salad, minus the faux shrimps.
Faux meats under a heating lamp.
There was even someone making bánh xèo, filled with mushrooms.
Desert offerings.
Talking to my Vietnamese teacher, I learned that the 7th month of the lunar calendar (around August) is when many Vietnamese eat vegetarian all month to honour ancestors - I think... So I suggested we go check out the restaurant again to see if the vegetarian buffet was being offered. Luckily for us, it was!!
At 120,000 VND each (about 7 USD), it is not a cheap meal in Vietnam. There were two separate floors and we were assigned to go to the third floor. There were not too many people when we arrived, but it was full when we left. The offering was quite extensive: soups, salads, noodles, sushi, spring rolls and all sorts of faux meats. We ordered something to drink, not realizing there was also a drinks buffet, including tea and lemonade!
Everyone checking out the selection with festive green decor.
Some vegetable offering.
Some vegetarian gỏi (salads) served with bánh phồng tôm (crackers, usually shrimp flavoured). Our favourite was the lotus salad, minus the faux shrimps.
Faux meats under a heating lamp.
"Chicken" curry.
There was even someone making bánh xèo, filled with mushrooms.
Fruit offering, including peeled rambutans.
Desert offerings.
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
Death in an Alley
I have been meaning to have a post about life in the alleyway or hẻm, where I live. I was going to write about knife sharpeners and recyclers in the morning, crowds gathered in the alleyway watching a soap opera or singing karaoke on a tiny television in a house and white-collar workers sitting on plastic chairs eating lunch. There are also chickens running around (The Boyfriend likes to warn "bird flu, bird flu" when he sees them), rice and onion being dried out in the sun, and rats scurrying around at night. However, I did not think I would include anything morbid.
My Vietnamese teacher came in today: "Did you see THE body?". I actually did see someone lying on a cot in the alleyway, head covered. Someone was massaging the person's feet so I assumed maybe it was someone who felt ill. I was SO VERY wrong. It was a dead body. I have mentioned that there are many homeless people in the city, people who come from rural areas to make money but cannot afford housing. They usually sleep on cots and hammocks at night. My guess is this was such a person or the body would be indoors.
My Vietnamese teacher is very amusing because she is very superstitious. I think this is characteristic of many Vietnamese people. She warned me about not looking at the body ("Did you already look at it?" she asked in panic) because it is bad luck. She was worried about The Boyfriend coming home tonight and walking by the body. She was also worried that the body would still be there on Friday when I have my next lesson.
Honestly, I have never really thought about how I feel about bodies. I don't usually like open caskets at funeral. I am not superstitious but I have to admit that it is rather creepy or morbid to have to walk by this body whenever I go out. I'm not sure also how a body will fare in this heat outside. I might try to minimize my outings until the body is removed...
My Vietnamese teacher came in today: "Did you see THE body?". I actually did see someone lying on a cot in the alleyway, head covered. Someone was massaging the person's feet so I assumed maybe it was someone who felt ill. I was SO VERY wrong. It was a dead body. I have mentioned that there are many homeless people in the city, people who come from rural areas to make money but cannot afford housing. They usually sleep on cots and hammocks at night. My guess is this was such a person or the body would be indoors.
My Vietnamese teacher is very amusing because she is very superstitious. I think this is characteristic of many Vietnamese people. She warned me about not looking at the body ("Did you already look at it?" she asked in panic) because it is bad luck. She was worried about The Boyfriend coming home tonight and walking by the body. She was also worried that the body would still be there on Friday when I have my next lesson.
Honestly, I have never really thought about how I feel about bodies. I don't usually like open caskets at funeral. I am not superstitious but I have to admit that it is rather creepy or morbid to have to walk by this body whenever I go out. I'm not sure also how a body will fare in this heat outside. I might try to minimize my outings until the body is removed...
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